Scrambled eggs and omelettes

Why

Beaten eggs set because heat unfolds their proteins and links them into a network that holds water: egg white sets at roughly 60–65 °C, yolk at 62–70 °C, and with milk or cream setting shifts higher. Give the network more heat and it tightens and squeezes out water – the eggs turn rubbery and dry, and a little puddle forms around them on the plate. That is why scrambled eggs and omelettes are cooked over gentle heat and taken off the stove a moment before they look done, as they keep setting in the hot pan and in their own heat. Salting eggs in advance, even a quarter of an hour before cooking, is fine: salt helps the proteins bond more gently, so the eggs tend to be creamier, not more watery. Juicy vegetables such as tomatoes or mushrooms, and a large splash of milk, also add water to the pan; it is better to sauté the vegetables first so their water evaporates.

How to do it

• Salt the eggs in the bowl and beat them with a fork just until white and yolk are combined.
• Heat the pan with butter or oil over gentle heat; the butter should foam, not brown.
• For scrambled eggs, slowly push the eggs from the edge to the centre with a spatula to form large, soft curds.
• After a brief stir, let the omelette set: lift the edge, tilt the pan to let runny egg flow underneath, and fold it while the centre is still soft.
• Sauté juicy vegetables until their water has evaporated, and only then pour the eggs over them.
• For young children, pregnant women, older and ill people, cook eggs until fully set.

If it goes wrong

Rubbery, dry eggs won't soften again; a spoonful of cold butter or cream stirred in makes them at least moister, and next time take the pan off sooner. If the eggs release water, pour it off and serve at once. Turn a scorched omelette with the paler side up, and next time lower the heat and grease the pan well.