Risotto

Why

Risotto rice such as arborio, carnaroli or vialone nano has large medium grains whose outer layer softens during cooking and releases starch into the liquid, while the centre stays firm for longer. Risotto is therefore cooked in a small amount of liquid that the rice gradually drinks, and stirring rubs the grains together and frees starch from their surface; the stock thickens into a creamy sauce that binds the grains. Constant stirring is not necessary, though: in tests by America's Test Kitchen it was enough to add most of the stock at once and stir only occasionally and at the end, because the bubbling liquid also keeps the grains moving. Hot stock keeps the pot simmering, so the rice cooks evenly and the cooking time matches the recipe. Risotto keeps thickening after cooking, because the rice goes on absorbing liquid and the starch sets as it cools, and standing turns it into a thick mush; Czech rizoto made from long-grain rice steamed under a lid is in fact a pilaf (see the Pilaf, paella and absorption-cooked rice card).

How to do it

• Do not rinse risotto rice; heat the stock in a pan alongside and keep it hot, just below the boil.
• Soften the onion in butter, add the rice and turn it for 1–2 minutes until the grains are translucent at the edges; pour in the wine and let it be absorbed.
• Add the stock a ladleful at a time, each time the rice has almost drunk it, and stir often; simmer gently, not hard.
• After 16–18 minutes, taste: the grain should be tender but still firm in the centre, and the risotto loose enough to spread on the plate in a wave.
• Take off the heat and stir in cold butter and grated Parmesan; do not add cheese to boiling risotto (see the Melting cheese into sauce card).
• Serve at once on warm plates; spread out leftovers so they cool quickly and use them by the next day, for example for arancini.

If it goes wrong

Loosen risotto that has thickened with a few spoonfuls of hot stock and stir briefly over the heat. If the stock has been absorbed and the grain is still hard, add more hot stock and keep cooking; overcooked risotto cannot be rescued, so cool it and make patties or arancini. Beat greasy risotto in which the butter separates with a spoonful of hot stock.