Glutinous rice and mochi

Why

The starch of glutinous rice is almost pure branched amylopectin with less than 2 % amylose, and it is amylopectin that gives a sticky, stretchy mass when cooked; the word glutinous does not mean gluten, which rice naturally does not contain. The grains are not boiled in water, where the surface would turn to mush before the centre softens, but soaked for hours until they absorb water and then steamed. Mochi is traditionally pounded from steamed rice; at home it is made from glutinous rice flour (mochiko, shiratamako) cooked with water over steam, while ordinary rice flour, richer in amylose, gives no elastic dough. In the cold the amylopectin gradually recrystallises (retrogradation), so mochi and glutinous rice harden in the fridge, whereas in the freezer hardening almost stops and reheating softens the mass again. Mochi is dense and sticky, does not break down in the mouth and can stick in the throat, which is why the Japanese Consumer Affairs Agency warns every year about choking, especially among older people.

How to do it

• Rinse glutinous rice, soak it in cold water for at least 4 hours or overnight, and drain it.
• Steam it on a damp cloth over boiling water for about 20–25 minutes, turning it halfway; done grains are translucent and soft right through.
• For mochi buy glutinous rice flour (mochiko, shiratamako); ordinary rice flour will not make an elastic dough.
• Knead the cooked dough while it is hot with a wet spatula or wet hands and shape it on a board dusted with starch.
• Eat mochi the same day, do not refrigerate it, and freeze it for longer; cool leftover steamed rice and refrigerate it within an hour (see the Cooking rice card).
• Cut mochi into small bites for older people and young children, so they eat slowly, swallow only after chewing and are watched while they eat.

If it goes wrong

Sprinkle grains that are still hard after steaming with a spoonful of hot water and steam them 10 minutes more; next time soak the rice longer. Mushy rice was boiled in water or too wet; use it for sweet rice porridge. Work dough that sticks to your hands with wet hands or with starch, and do not add flour to it. Briefly steam or toast mochi that has hardened and it will soften. If someone is choking and cannot speak or cough, have someone call 112; give up to 5 back blows with them leaning forward, then up to 5 abdominal thrusts, alternating, and start CPR if they lose consciousness.