Goulash and paprika

Why

Ground paprika is rich in sugars, so in fat over full heat it quickly darkens and turns bitter; that is why it goes into goulash only once the pot is off the heat, followed straight away by liquid or the meat, which lower the temperature. The fat draws out colour and aroma that would dissolve less readily in water. Goulash gets its body mainly from onions: during long stewing they break down completely and, together with the gelatin from the meat, thicken the sauce, which is why so many are used – German sources give a meat-to-onion ratio of up to 1:1, Gustica's recipes allow a quarter to half the weight of the meat. Hungarian pörkölt is traditionally not thickened with flour, and the Czech spoonful of flour at the end is a habit, not a necessity; the more onion has cooked down, the less flour is needed. On the second day goulash is often silkier, because the gelatin melts again on reheating and coats the meat, but side-by-side tastings show only small differences in flavour – and it only keeps if it is cooled quickly in the fridge.

How to do it

• Don't skimp on onions: allow usually a quarter to half the weight of the meat, or even more, and chop them finely.
• Take the pot off the heat before adding the paprika, stir it briefly into the fat and immediately add liquid or the meat.
• Stew covered at a gentle simmer and add liquid gradually in small amounts, so the onions break down and the sauce isn't diluted.
• Judge the thickness only at the end: simmer a thin goulash uncovered; add only a little flour, and only if the recipe calls for it.
• For the next day, divide the goulash into shallow containers, refrigerate it within 2 hours of cooking and reheat it until piping hot throughout.
• Skim off excess fat with a spoon; it is easiest once the goulash has cooled and the fat has set on top.

If it goes wrong

Bitterness from scorched paprika cannot be removed, only softened a little; if the paprika burned right at the start, pour away the fat with the paprika and the onions and begin again. Simmer a thin goulash uncovered or blend part of the cooked-down onion into it; tough meat simply needs longer stewing. Next time add the paprika only once the pot is off the heat.