Amatriciana sauce (sugo all’amatriciana)

Method

1. Cut the rind off the guanciale and cut the meat into strips about 1 cm wide and 0.5 cm thick. Crush the canned tomatoes by hand or with a fork (scald, peel, deseed and chop fresh San Marzano tomatoes). Grate the pecorino.
2. Heat the oil in a frying pan (ideally iron) and fry the guanciale over low heat for 6–8 minutes until the fat turns translucent and the strips start to turn golden.
   TipRendering bacon and lardBacon needs patience: on gentle heat its fat runs out and it crisps, on fierce heat it burns outside and stays rubbery within.Why and howShow less

   Why

   The fat in bacon and in pork back fat is held in the cells of fatty tissue bound together by connective tissue; heat liquefies the fat so it gradually runs out, the water evaporates, and the lean parts shrink and turn crisp. This takes time, which is why bacon goes into a cold pan, even with a little water, and is heated over medium heat: the water keeps the temperature low at first, the fat renders before the surface scorches, and the bacon crisps evenly. In a fiercely hot pan the surface burns, the fat blackens and smokes, and the fatty parts stay rubbery. Pork fat for cracklings is rendered over gentle heat with frequent stirring until the cracklings are light brown and crush easily; overcooked cracklings give dark lard with a burnt taste. Bacon cured with nitrite also forms nitrosamines when fried over fierce heat, and EFSA regards dietary exposure to nitrosamines as a health concern, so this is one more reason to fry bacon until crisp, not black.

   How to do it

   1. Cut the bacon into slices, strips or cubes of even thickness, spread it in a cold pan in a single layer and, if you like, add about 4 tablespoons of water.
   2. Heat over medium heat and turn it now and then; the water evaporates and the bacon then keeps frying in its own fat.
   3. Take the bacon out as soon as it is golden brown; it crisps further on paper towel, and if it is dark while still in the pan, it is overcooked.
   4. Cut pork fat for cracklings into even cubes and render it in a heavy pot over gentle heat, stirring often, until the cracklings turn golden.
   5. Carefully strain the hot lard through a sieve into dry jars and keep it covered in the fridge once cool; never add water to hot fat, it boils up violently and spatters.
   6. Use the fat rendered from bacon to soften onions or vegetables; let the rest set and put it in the bin, not down the drain.

   If it goes wrong

   Put rubbery bacon back in the pan and let it keep rendering slowly over gentle heat until it crisps. Burnt bacon cannot be saved, it is bitter; take fat that has blackened or smoked heavily off the heat, let it cool a little, pour it carefully into a dry container and carry on in a clean pan. If the cracklings catch on the bottom before they release their fat, lower the heat and stir more often. Lard that has darkened and smells scorched is edible, but use it only where a stronger flavour does no harm.

   Full card

3. Pour in the wine and let it evaporate for 2–3 minutes. Lift out the golden strips with a slotted spoon and keep them warm; leave the fat in the pan.
4. Add the tomatoes, salt and the piece of chilli to the same pan and cook over medium heat for about 15 minutes (10–20 minutes depending on how juicy the tomatoes are) until the sauce is thick and creamy and the fat separates at the edges.
5. Return the guanciale to the sauce, stir and heat through for 5 minutes; adjust the salt.
6. To serve, toss the sauce with pasta cooked al dente, add most of the pecorino off the heat and toss again; sprinkle the rest on top. One serving of sauce goes with one serving of pasta (about 80–100 g dried).