Crêpes and thick pancakes

Why

Crêpe batter is a thin mixture of flour, milk and eggs without raising agent; if you let it rest, the flour absorbs the liquid, the gluten formed by mixing relaxes and air bubbles escape, so the crêpes are tender, supple and free of holes. Thick pancakes are denser and are raised with baking powder, yeast or whisked egg white; their batter is only mixed briefly and small lumps are left in it, because further mixing would develop gluten and make them tough and rubbery (see the Kneading and gluten card). In the pan, temperature decides: in a cold pan the batter dries for a long time before it browns, it sticks and the crêpe comes out pale and tough; in a pan that is too hot it sets before it can spread and burns. The first crêpe often fails because the pan has not yet reached a steady temperature and the fat is not evenly spread; use it to adjust the flame. Thick pancakes need gentler heat than crêpes so the centre cooks through before the surface darkens.

How to do it

• For crêpes, whisk the eggs with part of the milk, stir in the flour until smooth and only then add the rest of the milk; that way no lumps form.
• Let crêpe batter rest for at least 30 minutes; if it is to stand longer than an hour, put it in the fridge, even overnight, and stir it before cooking.
• Mix thick pancake batter only briefly with a wooden spoon until no dry flour is left, and leave small lumps in it.
• Heat the pan over medium heat and wipe it with just a thin film of fat using kitchen paper; a little melted butter in the batter itself helps the crêpes not to stick.
• Turn a crêpe when the edges are golden and lift away and the surface looks matt; turn a thick pancake when the bubbles on it burst and stay open.
• Stack finished crêpes on a plate under a cloth or lid so they stay soft.

If it goes wrong

If crêpes tear, the batter has usually not rested or the pan is too cold: let the batter rest, heat the pan more, and if needed add a spoonful of flour or an egg to the batter. If the batter is thick and the crêpes rubbery, thin it with a little milk. Finish pancakes that are dark outside and raw inside for a few minutes in the oven or under a lid over gentle heat, and cook the next ones over a lower flame. If the batter sticks, wipe the pan, grease it again and let it heat through properly.