Salting meat ahead (dry brining)

Why

Salt on the surface first draws juices out, dissolves in them, and the resulting brine is absorbed back in as the meat rests; that is why meat is wet shortly after salting and dry again after a longer wait. Inside the meat, salt loosens some of the muscle proteins, mainly myosin, so they contract less during cooking, the fibres squeeze out less juice and the meat is seasoned below the surface, not just on the outside. Kitchen tests allow about 1 hour for steaks and chops, 6 to 24 hours in the fridge for roasts and whole chicken, and 24 to 48 hours for turkey. Meat salted only shortly before searing still has drawn-out juices on its surface, which must evaporate first, so it steams grey instead of forming a crust; salt either just before it goes into the pan, or well in advance. For grilling, the German BfR advises salting only at the end; if you want to follow it, salt grilled meat only after grilling.

How to do it

• Salt steaks and chops about 1 hour ahead, roasts and whole chicken 6 to 24 hours, turkey 24 to 48 hours ahead.
• When salting for longer, keep the meat on the bottom shelf of the fridge, on a rack over a plate and only loosely covered.
• Salt evenly on all sides, using the same amount you would otherwise use, not more.
• Pat the meat dry with paper towels before cooking and don't salt it again.
• If there's no time to salt ahead, salt just before the meat goes into the hot pan, not a little while before.
• Leave poultry in the fridge unwrapped, only loosely covered so the cover doesn't touch the skin: the skin dries out and crisps better in the oven.

If it goes wrong

Oversalted meat can only partly be saved: slice it thinly and serve it with an unsalted sauce and side. A grey surface without a crust means the meat was wet on the surface – next time pat it dry thoroughly before searing and let the pan heat up well.