Aubergine (eggplant)

Why

Aubergine flesh has many tiny air spaces between its cells, making it light and foamy, and in the pan it soaks up oil as fast as a sponge. Once the aubergine cooks through, the cells soften, the air spaces collapse and some of the oil is released again; the flesh then turns creamy, whereas undercooked aubergine stays cottony and rubbery, which is why it is baked or braised until completely soft. Pre-cooking in the oven, by steaming or in the microwave collapses the structure in advance, so the aubergine then absorbs less fat and browns better. Salt draws water out of the flesh by osmosis and pressing collapses some of the air spaces, but sources disagree on whether the aubergine then absorbs noticeably less oil. Salting against bitterness is mostly habit today: modern varieties are rarely bitter, bitterness appears mainly in overripe fruit with many dark seeds, and salt masks it on the tongue (see the Salting and seasoning card).

How to do it

• Choose firm, glossy aubergines that feel heavy for their size, with a green stalk; soft, wrinkled and dull ones tend to be overripe, seedy and more bitter.
• For frying and layered dishes, salt the slices, leave them for 30–60 minutes to release water, then press them and pat them dry with a towel.
• Pre-cooked aubergine absorbs less oil: brush the pieces with oil and roast them in a hot oven (see the Roasted vegetables card), or soften them first by steaming or in the microwave.
• In the pan, start with less oil and don't add more when the aubergine soaks it up; keep frying, and once soft it will release it again.
• Always cook aubergine until soft, so the flesh can be mashed with a spoon; for baba ghanoush, roast it whole over a flame or in the oven until it collapses.
• Cut aubergine browns in the air; cut it just before cooking.

If it goes wrong

Let oily aubergine drain on kitchen paper and serve it with yoghurt or lemon to balance the richness; next time pre-roast it. Cover rubbery, undercooked aubergine, add a splash of water or sauce and braise it until soft. Salt, acid and fat tone down bitterness; with overripe fruit, scraping out the dark seeds helps.